Practising a Heart Shaped Hairstyle

Creating this hairstyle was a challenge for me as it was my first attempt, however I learned a lot from it and have been able to draw from my mistakes to create a more symmetrical, tidier heart shaped hairstyle.


On the right we were taught a method to crimp hair without using crimpers which I thought was interesting as it was probably a form of viable method to crimp hair in the Elizabethan times. It consisted of intertwining a piece of hair in and out of a hair grip, securing it and then pressing on it with hair straightens and then leaving it to cool. This left a crimped texture on the hair that was exactly the same as using crimpers.

This was when I had created half of the hair. What I didn't realise when doing this was that on the left of the padding, I could have pulled the hair down and secured it to the head so there wouldn't have been that loose hair, and it would have enabled the hair to look more symmetrical. Although realising when I created the high and curly hairstyle that I had too much hair at the front, I attempted to make the padding further forward and minimise the amount of curled hair but unfortunately still made the same mistake.

 

This was the finished result. I was not completely happy with how it turned out because of the fact that it was not symmetrical, I had not pulled the hair around the padding properly and I did not think the curls at the front were small and tight enough. However now that I realise that I made this mistake, I know how to secure hair over padding and create a look that is more refined and would be more comfortable on the head, as if this were on a real person it would most likely feel loose and unfastened. Moreover, I understand better what type of curls are needed at the front of the hair in order to look Elizabethan.

Modern Elizabethan Hairstyle Inspiration

These are some photos that have influenced my ideas for my final hair creation. I particularly love the adaption of backcombed, crimped hair into a mohawk type style as it encompasses Elizabethan and a 'punk' look. I believe that it would really intertwine Elizabethan and contemporary styles to create a tall, round shape on the top of the head and have pulled back sides. It looks clean but with a large focal point.
When looking at the photo on the left, which is are hairstyles created by Sam McKnight for Chanel's pre-fall 2013 show, it is apparent how he has combined the Elizabethan large bouffant shape at the top of the head with a contemporary stereotypical 'ghetto' set of plaits that extend to the top of the head. What I would like to do is have the plaits on the sides of the head and extending down, which looks almost tribal and native but also alludes to the popular braided styles of Elizabethan hair. It's interesting how this padded, tall look is still being used to this day in high fashion as it shows how everlasting hairstyles and techniques can be.

Although not contemporary, I found this example of braids in a book called 'Hair: Fashion and Fantasy', which has a portrait by Leonardo Da Vinci, created in 1506, prime time of the Italian Renaissance period. She has french plaits on the top of her head, and I would like to replicate this on the sides of the head.

References: 
Phillipon, L., 2013. Hair: Fashion and Fantasy, Thames and Hudson.

Modern Hairstyles with Curls and Frizz

It is clear how much of an influence Elizabethan hairstyles have become towards high fashion in the modern age. The crimping, padding and ginger hair has become a trademark of Elizabeth and her time, and designers have been able to adapt this to contemporary styles and fashion, push the boundaries of hair or simply use them as inspiration. From research it is immediately clear which images are derived from this inspiration.

In these images that I found in a book called 'Fashion Now', Elizabethan influence has created a basis for these hairstyles. The bright ginger hair, extreme frizzing and also crimping has been used and adapted for high fashion, leaving an everlasting image of Elizabeth and keeping her style alive, which was her intention. Her influence is immortal.

In this image from a book called 'Hair: Fashion and Fantasy', the popular musician 'Bjork' is modelling an elaborate braided, adorned hairstyle. This has taken Elizabethan influence because of the complicated braiding and large height. The curly, wirey features are actually hair, and are extremely tight ringlets which is similar to what Elizabeth would have on the front of her elaborate up-do's. 

This is also an image from 'Hair: Fashion and Fantasy'. This alludes to Elizabethan hair very strongly due to the vibrant ginger colour and the abundance of crimped, backcombed hair. This is an interesting example of how Elizabethan hair and contemporary style can be combined.











In this photo of Beyonce, there is heavy Elizabethan influence. Her hair has been lifted up, and underneath this will be padding. It is in a stereotypical Elizabethan shape too. Moreover, crimping will have had to be done in order to achieve this look and to enable to hair to go over the padding. They have even spray painted her hair white, extending the complexion across all features of her body.

Helena Bonham Carter as 'The Queen of Hearts' also clearly has a strong Elizabethan influence, but it is exaggerated, signified by the blood red hair. However to create this hairstyle, the hair on the hairpiece will have been curled beforehand and then placed over the padding in order to create this beautiful wavy texture.




References:
Jones, T., 2005. Fashion Now 2, Taschen GmbH.
Phillipon, L., 2013. Hair: Fashion and Fantasy, Thames and Hudson.

Padding and Creating a Symmetrical Hairstyle

In the studio, we have been practicing creating an Elizabethan hairstyle, namely something that would need to be symmetrical, and so I chose to create an updo. Admittedly, it did not go how I wanted, however I found it very helpful practice due to the fact that I was able to get feedback and understand what I had done wrong.

 

 

What I found after creating this was that I had placed the padding too far back, and so the bouffant was not clearly visible and I had too much hair for the curling. If I was to do this differently, I would have chosen a curler with a really small wand so that I could create small ringlet curls that could then be frizzed and made to look more Elizabethan. When looking at this photo on the left I unfortunately see more of a bridal hairstyle than an Elizabethan hairstyle. I took this into consideration and when creating hairstyles now I know where to place the padding and how much to have at the front. Overall this was a very helpful experience which enabled me to learn from my mistakes.

Elizabethan Hair Shapes

Hair shapes in the Tudor times were created using wigs and hairpieces. In order to create big shapes that would stay, 'rats' were used. These were pieces of hair fashioned in a 'rat' type shape that enabled hair to be placed over it.

Tall and round shape

Heart shaped

Frizzy and round

High and curly

Her extensive hair shape and decorative styling is shown throughout her long line of portraits, spanning over more than 50 years.


References:
http://www.extremecostuming.com/articles/twoelizabethanhairstyles.html

The History of Elizabethan Hair

Elizabethan hair is a very recognisable fashion that will forever be accredited to Elizabeth I and the Renaissance. She was widely known for her extensive collection of wigs and her brightly coloured orange hair.

It is apparent here how Elizabeth has a very high forehead. In the medieval times it was commonplace for married women to pluck their hairline back and to pluck their eyebrows (despite Elizabeth not being married). 

Tudors became very experimental with braiding. They began to drape it over the head, over padding and around the head. They were also able to use curling irons to curl the hair.

Wigs (Known as Periwigs) and headpieces were used by Elizabeth I profusely, particularly in her later years when she began to lose her hair as a result of lead poisoning. The wigs were usually made of peasant's hair. Blonde was the most desired colour, but this vibrant gingery red was Elizabeth's trademark.







References:
Cosgrave, B. 2000. Costume and Fashion: A Complete History, Hamlyn.
http://www2.springfield.k12.il.us/schools/springfield/eliz/hairstyles.html
http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-hair-styles.htm

This was my first attempt at an Elizabethan hairstyle. Admittedly, I struggled with how to fashion the ribbon as it's not something I've done before, so I know that practice is key for me to be able to achieve a true Elizabethan inspired hairstyle. From this lesson what managed to conjure was a french plait across the front with some ribbon intertwined. I know that their hairstyles were elaborate and accessories such as ribbon and feathers were used, and so I wish to create a hairstyle that encompasses their attention to detail and use of props to create unique styles.

Hair in Tudor Portraits

During our trip to London we were fortunate enough to visit the National Portrait Gallery and view Tudor portraits for ourselves and examine the hairstyles that were created and displayed via art.

In the portraits of Elizabeth that we viewed, it was apparent that she did not wear the typical headwear of Tudor women, such as Coifs or Pillbox hats. She would almost always have a high, elaborate wig on her head. For example in these portraits:

 

Elizabeth would have hairstyles that involved pass amounts of padding, crimping, curling and braiding along with adornments such as ribbons, pearls, jewels and lace.

However, when looking at other Tudor portraits of people of a lower stature than Elizabeth (which was everyone as she was seen as one step below God), different accessories for Elizabethan hairstyles are used:

Coif: This was a close fitting cap and was normal to wear among both the higher classes and the lower classes. 

Pillbox hat: This was a hat that sat on the back of the head and had no brim, was upright at the front, back and sides.

French Hood: This was worn close fitting to the head, and would most likely feature a gold pleated band somewhere. At the back of a hood would be a black veil that would flow down the back of the wearer. However by the time Elizabeth came to reign, the french hood shrank in size and became more primarily constructed of lace, pearls and jewellery. In addition to this, the love of big hair in the Elizabethan age would further dwarf the french hood.

Attifet: This was popular when the hair was fashion into a heart shape. The front and sides would be made of wire so that the shape would stay the way that it is, and was normally created with linen or silk, then decorated with pearls, lace and jewels.

Caul: The caul was a bag that covered the hair that was fashioned into a bun with hair over it. Often, it would be worn with other hair accessories such as hats and sometimes over Coifs. Like the photo on the left, it could be decorated with metallic netting and also pearls and other jewels. It could even be embroidered.











References: 
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/coif.html
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/frenchhood.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Attifet
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/snood.html